some important things for cfl business

• There are some important things to be think about it when start new business of cfl.

• age of glass should be more than 8000 hrs.

• transistors of plate should be new.

• housing/ body of cfl should be pbt type.

• packing should be comparable with brands.

your cfl bulb does not glow then follow these steps

cfl repairing dead cfl repairing cfl installation cfl assembly

your cfl bulb does not glow then follow these steps

Check TP1 AND TP2 ac 230 v comes to bridge rectifier or not.

When comes  230 v ac  then check TP3 AND TP4 300 v dc in filter capacitor C4 3.3 uF /400v .

If not coming then check bridge rectifier  and C4 .

When  comes 300v dc  , then check  TP 5  here around 125-150v dc is coming.

If not coming then check  Q1,Q2-  MJE 13001, R1,R3 – 1 Ohems, R2,R5 – 20 Ohems and its related component.

After 125v DC coming in TP5 if CFL BULB not glow then check CFL TUBE two side coil, and chopper tranfermer.

After this tube already glow , if does not glow then see this tube starting point only glow in low light but not complete not glow then, check  C3 2n2/630 v is shorty.

Replace this C3 and you done.

circuit diagram with calculation of philips cfl

how to repair a dead cfl, installation of cfl, reuse of cfl
circuit diagram with calculation of philips cfl
if you want to download it the click on

how to repair dead cfl

Dismantle the faulty CFL bulb, repair of dead cfl, reuse of cfl, installation of cfl,  first. This requires a bit of patience and alertness as some bulbs are difficult to disassemble and it is hazardous if you break the glass. After separating the ballast, closely observe the circuit.

In some ballast circuits there is a fuse or a 10 Ω resistor as a fuse. First check whether it is O.K. Sometimes there may be burnt paths in the PCB, or there may be burnt, cracked or blasted components. Usually these are transistors, resistors and capacitors.  If so, you can clean the circuit board and retrace the burnt path and repair it or else you can simply replace the faulty item with new ones. Make sure to keep the correct pin arrangement when you replace a component. If there is no prominent visible fault, then check each item with a digital multimeter. You can do it without desoldering any component. First check the two transistors. In many cases this is the most vulnerable item. Locate the three nodes of the both transistors on the PCB. Place the two multimeter leads on two of them and note the reading. Check the same two nodes of the other transistor and the reading should be nearly the same. If not one is faulty. Then you can check if one transistor is out of order or short circuited. If so, replace this with an equivalent transistor. According to my experience, most of the time MJE13001, or 13003 will do the job perfectly. If a transistor is out, then, most probably a close by resistor is out. You can check all the resistors while they are on the board itself. They should give a very close reading to their values according to the color code. After that, check whether the diodes are O.K.  They should conduct only in one-way. In some ballast circuits there is an item called Diac usually marked 'DB3'. This cannot be checked with a multimeter. But don't worry it is very very unlikely that the bulb doesn't light due to its fault. If you have a digital multimeter which can check capacitors ( like Model No. DT 9205)  then you can check each capacitor for faults. This of course is very seldom. Finally, check the continuity of the two inductor coils and the PCB paths. I have experienced one CFL ballast which had all the components functioning perfectly but it failed merely due to an improper solder joint in one end of an inductor coil. The following link was really helpful for me to understand the ballast circuit electronics in repairing the CFL bulbs.